
THE BEST WAFFLES, the largest piece of apple pie, the least expensive cup of coffee, the finest biscuits 'n' gravy, the most affordable books, the longest coastal footpath, the best free golf, the finest miniature golf course, the most magnificent ship's modelsthese are just a few of the superlatives you'll find in Captain D's Downeast Directory of the Unique.
Based on more than 30 years of first-hand experience, this remarkable guide carries no advertising. It's a labor of love. Inclusion is based entirely on merit. Fearlessly, it represents all the best of Downeast Maine.
Have you encountered the unique Downeast? Why not tell Captain D? You can e-mail him at info@captaind.com.
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Accommodations, least costly. Fultons Cabins, Penbroke. Sixteen bucks a night.
African stuff, best and most. Deepest Africa Imports, Deer Isle. Proprietor Jackie Pelletier grew up in South Africa and is an authority on all things African. Running neck to neck with Jackie is Chris Covert at Arts and Africana in Hancock.
Airport, closest to Europe. Bangor International Airport. On the Great Circle Route, BIA is 500 miles closer to Europe than any other U.S. airport.
All-you-can-eat luncheon buffet, best. Miller's Restaurant, Bangor. More than 200 entrees including dessert for $4.
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Antique cars, best collection. Seal Cove Auto Museum, Seal Cove. This is one of the nation's premier collections of vintage autos.
Apple pie, biggest piece. White House Restaurant, Jonesboro. Looks to us like a quarter of a pie.
Art gallery, best cooperative. Island Artisans, 99 Main St., Bar Harbor. Twenty-four area craftspeople run this outstanding gallery.
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Bargain, best in Bar Harbor. The 21-cent cup of black coffee at West End Drug. A terrific buyespecially in summer when prices tend to baloon in deference to the perceived deep pockets of tourists.
Beach, best in Maine. Jasper Beach, Machiasport. America's Best Online lists Jasper as among the 25 best beaches in the United States.
Bears, most. Bearfest, held annually in Belfast. Maine artists have a go at decorating fiberglas bears in creative ways.
Bears most stuffed. Cranberry Hollow, Searsport. Proprietor Helen Kimmerly has collected stuffed bears her entire life and has hundreds of them on display. She will custom-make you a bear out of any old fur, wool, quilting or other sentimentally important material you have on hand.
Beer, best. Bar Harbor Brewing Company, Otter Creek. This company's Cadillac Mountain Stout took a platinum medal at the 1996 World Beer Championship.
Bells, best. U.S. Bells, Prospect Harbor. Richard Fisher's unique bells are lovely sculptures as well as functional noise-makers.
BLUEBERRIES, most items associated with same. DEBBIE'S BLUEBERRY WARE, Rte 1, Hancock. Besides her hand-crafted blueberry pottery, Debbie stocks a huge number of blueberry-related items.

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Candy, best homemade. Katie's, Rte 1, Robbinston. Or maybe Sanborn's Fine Candies, Bangor. We love them both.
Canoe, largest manufacturer. Old Town Canoe, Old Town, Maine. This century-old company sells canoes through 800 U.S. dealerships and 18 foreign countries. For centuries, the Penobscot Indians built canoes here, and Old Town's original canoe was patterned after those built by these Indians.
Car ferry, fastest. The Cat, which travels between Bar Harbor, Maine, and Yarmouth, Nova Scotia. This twin-hulled behemoth cut three-and-a-half hours off what had been a six-hour trip.
Chainsaw sculptor, world's best. Ray Murphy, Rte 1, Hancock. Ripley's Believe It or Not featured Ray after he carved the entire alphabet on a common lead pencil.

CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES, best. GEORGE'S JAVA, 2 Water St., Ellsworth. I always thought mom had a lock on this. No more. Somehow George's moist, chip-chocked creations are just a bit better.

CLASSIC INTERNATIONAL CUISINE, best. THISTLES RESTAURANT, Bangor. South Americans Alejandro and Maria Rave have introduced loads of "new old food" to the palates of Downeasterners. No other regional restaurant has a menu that covers the traditional cuisine of so much of the globe.
CLAM CHOWDER, best. UNION RIVER LOBSTERPOT RESTAURANT, Ellsworth. Brian Langles's chowder won first prize in Ellsworth's annual Autumn Gold Festival. He describes his entry as being "as traditional as Maine can get."
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DECOYS, best. NELSON DECOYS, Jonesport. Winner of too many awards to list.
Distinction, most dubious. Cutler's place near the top of the list of likely targets in any future nuclear confrontation. The U.S. Navy has a communications center here that keeps in touch with submarines aound the globe.
Donut Hole, first. Local legend has it that in 1847 Captain Hanson Crokett Gregory of Camden poked a hole in a biscuit to place it over one of the spokes in his ships wheel while he navigated. This native son inventor is remembered annually in Camdens Hole in the Donut Festival.
Dorm food, best. College of the Atlantic, Bar Harbor. Exotic grub most college kids can't imagine, much of which is grown on COA's 86-acre organic farm.The Princeton Review consistently rates COA Number One.
Dress shop, best. Grasshopper Shop, Bangor. Maine Times readers gave the hopper the nod.
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Eagles, most. Pleasant Bay, east of Petit Manan. The ample supply of fish makes this the Maine coast's most popular habitat for bald eagles. The eagle population in Maine has rebounded; they are listed as "threatened" instead of "endangered" as they were in the 1970s. Still, Maine eagles are far from common, and a sighting is always an awe-inspiring surprise.
Easternmost point in U.S., Quoddy Head State Park.
Eggs Benedict, best. Testa's Restaurant, 53 Main St., Bar Harbor. The keys limes in the sauce make the difference.
European settlement, first in new world. St. Croix Island between Robbinston and Calais. In 1604, Samuel de Champlain and 80 other Frenchman took up residence on this well-protected five-and-a-half acre island. After one particularly unpleasant winter marked by hunger and scurvy, they retreated to Port Royal, Nova Scotia.
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Fabled city of great riches, non-existent. Early explores to the New World sought to find Norumbega, a City of Gold said to lie along a great river in the north. This led them to what now is Bangor, where they found a bare-bones Indian camp.
Factory outlet, best known. LL. Bean, High St., Ellsworth. A wide variety of discounted items from Maine's most famous store.
Famous Mainers, nastiest. Samuel Waldo, an 18th century merchant prince who once controlled vast acreages in Downeast Maine. According to Maine State historian Thomas Griffiths, Waldo was aggressive, ruthless, avaricious, and without mercy, always ready to betray employees, servants, business partners, as well as friends and family. Waldo County is named for this miscreant.
Film archives, best. Northeast Historic Film, Main St., Bucksport. Said to be the country's premier regional moving image collection.
Fish hatchery, nation's oldest. Craig Brook National Fish Hatchery, East Orland. Check out the visitors' center, aquarium, picnic area and boatlaunching ramp.
Fjord, unique. Somes Sound, Mount Desert Island. Only fjord on U.S. Atlantic coast.
Flags, most to have flown over a Maine community. Four. At one time or another, British, French, Dutch and American forces have controlled what now is Castine.
Flora, most indigenous. Wild Gardens of Acadia at Sieur de Monts Spring in Bar Harbor. Maintained by the Bar Harbor Garden Club, these gardens are a showcase for the native plants of Acadia.
Florist, best facility. Bangor Floral, 96 Center St., Bangor. Situated in an old church with lovely stained glass windows, a perfect ambiance for flowers.
Fog, most. Downeast Maine. It's official; no place on earth is foggier than Downeast Maine. Records are kept, and each year Downeast Maine most always logs at least 180 foggy days.
Fort, best. Fort Knox, Prospect. Underground stairways, brick archways, ramparts of master stone masons, and old canon make this a great place for kids to play. Some of its walls are 40 feet thick.
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Gallery, best in a terrible location. The Barter Family Gallery, West Sullivan. Phil Barter's wonderful and sought-after paintings way off the beaten path.
GALLERY, most beautifully situated. The Gallery at Caterpillar Hill, Sedgwick. The awesome view from here competes with the world's best.
Garlic, most. The Olive Garden, Hogan Road, Bangor. If youre really into garlic, check out the Mediterranean Garlic Shrimp. Its loaded!
Gate, most celebrated. Stephen King's, West Broadway, Bangor. King's bat and cobweb creation attracts hoards of gawkers.
Gifts and Souvenirs, most. Country Store of Trenton, Rte 3, Trenton. The shops here stock more than 50,000 separate items.
Golf clubs, least expensive. Bucksport Golf Club, Rte 46, Bucksport. Lynn and Wayne Hand will match or beat anybody's price on clubs they have in stock. This course, rather a well kept-secret, is Maine's longest 9-hole layout and a pleasure to play.
Golf course, best municipal. Bangor Muni. Golf Digest called it one of the country's 100 best.
Golf course, most historic. Kebo Valley Club, Bar Harbor. Maine's oldest course (1888), eighth oldest in the country. For years, Walter Hagen held the course record; President William Howard Taft took a 27 on Kebo's infamous seventeenth.
Golf Course, untouchable hole. Nobody has ever reached the 600-plus 18th hole at the Bar Harbor Golf Course in Trenton in two shots.
Golf Course, worst name. Barren View Golf Club, Machias. to my mind, this name suggests desolation, waste, sterility, unprofitability, and drearinessall sorts of negativity. (It's actually named for the quite beautiful blueberry barens it overlooks, but this probably wouldn't occur to first-time visitors.)
Granite, most famous. The fine pink stone of Crotch Island, must off Stonington. Sherwood Pink granite from here was used in President Kennedy's Arlington Cemetery memorial.
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Hamburger, biggest. Eagles' Nest Restaurant, Rte 9, Eddington. The burgers here look like small meatloaves.
Hand-crafted musical instruments, best. Song of the Sea Dulcimer, Bagpipe and Folk Harp Instrument Shop, West St., Bar Harbor.
Headland, highest on Atlantic coast north of Rio de Janeiro. Otter Cliffs, Acadia National Park. Three-hundred-plus-foot cliffs.
Hemp products, most. Bar Harbor Hemporium. Thousands of pieces of clothing and accessories, all made of this wonderous, environmental friendly material.
Hot-dog Stand, most exotic menu. Hot Diggity Dog, Hancock. Salsa dogs, Hummus, touboli pitas, and jalapeno sausage are among the fare here.

HOT SAUCE, hottest. THE MEX, Main St., Ellsworth. They make it themselves.
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Ice Cream, largest serving. Spencer's Homemade Ice Cream, Bradley. The small cone here is a triple-decker anywhere else. Ask for a dish.
Inn, most famous haunted. Lucerne Inn, Rte 1A, Lucerne-in-Maine. A long-deceased caretaker has spooked countless guests.
International park, world's only. Roosevelt Campobello International Park, connected by bridge to Lubec. Technically in New Brunswick, this 2,800-acre park is where Franklin Delano Roosevelt summered as a boy.
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July Fourth Celebration, earliest. Cherryfield, Maine. Festivities are always the last full weekend before the 4th, (which can put them in June).
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Kayaks, best. Baldwin Kayaks, built in Orrington. These unique fiberglass vessels are labors of love.
Kayak Symposium, best. L.L. Bean's Atlantic Coast Sea Kayak Symposium, an extravaganza of outdoor workshops, classroom seminars, and boat demonstrations held annually at the Maine Maritime Academy in Castine.
KIDS, best place to take them. OCEANARIUMS, Bar Harbor and Southwest Harbor. Educational, interesting, unforgettable.
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Liars, biggest. They guys who occupy the Liar's Table at Tall Barney's Restaurant in Jonesport. Every day they meet to exchange tall tales.
Lighthouse, most photographed. Bass Harbor Head Light, Bass Harbor. Said to be the world's most-photographed lighthouse.
Lobster, biggest. That would be Wilbur the Lobster, the 20-foot-long fiberglass creation lurking outside Ruth and Wimpy's Restaurant in Hancock. A few years ago, Roadway Expressed included Wilbur on its list of the nation's 12 most interesting things to see.
Lobster, largest number of ways to have it fixed. Jasper's Restaurant, High St., Ellsworth. Choose from any of 11 different ways.
Lobster, least expensive. Eaton's Fish Pier, Sunshine. Last time we checked, the basic lobster dinner here was $7.95. (Equally inexpensive lobsters can occasionally be found elsewhere, depending upon the time of year and current market prices.)
Lobster museum, unique. The Oceanarium, near the head of the island, Bar Harbor. Everything youve ever wanted to know about lobsters, generally related by a crusty old Maine lobsterman. Theres also a lobster hatchery here.
Lobster Roll, world's best. The Castine Variety Store, Castine. Lots of hardshell lobster; up to three times as much as some; probably a quarter pound. Not much mayo. Low price: $9.99. These rolls were featured in a Travel and Leisure article about the coast of Maine.
LOBSTER STEW, best. FISHERMAN'S FRIEND RESTAURANT, Stonington. Best in Maine, according to Yankee Magazine..

LOG HOMES HANDCRAFTED, only ones in Maine. TUCKER MOUNTAIN LOG HOMES, Sullivan. These homes are works of rare art that must be seen to be appreciated.
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MAGICKAL HERBS, most. BROOMSTICK CREATIONS, W. Lubec. The good Wiccums here have a huge supply of herbs purportedly having mystical properties.
MAINE-MADE PRODUCTS, best edible inventory. MAINE'S OWN TREATS, Rte 3, Trenton.
MARINE SUPPLIES, least expensive. TUGBOAT MARINE SUPPLY, Columbia Falls. Nobody, but nobody, undercuts the Colloras.
MITTENS, warmest. RED WAGON QUILT & CRAFT SHOP, Route 1, Pembroke. Alma Bednarik has developed a way to knit 100 percent wool mittens that are probably the world's thickest and warmest, perfect for Maine's suz-zero winters.
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Native flora, most. Wild Gardens of Acadia, Sieur de Monts Spring, Mount Desert Island. More than 300 species of native plants are displayed and labeled.
National Park, first east of the Mississippi (and only one in New England). Acadia National Park, most of which lies on Mount Desert Island.
Natural History Museum, best. College of the Atlantic, Bar Harbor. Native fauna in realistic settings.
Naval battle, first of American revolution. Machias, 1775. Local boys commandeered the British schooner Margaretta and proceeded to terrorize all passing British shipping.
Nepalese artifacts, most and best. Options from the World Marketplace, Rte 15, Blue Hill. Far out prayer bells, sculptures, handcrafts, etc.
NUT COLLECTION, worlds largest. DIMARCO REALTY, Prospect Harbor. The collection once belonging to Perrys Nut House and containing every known botanical nut has ended up on public display in this tiny seaside village.
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Oars and paddles, world's finest. Shaw and Tenny, Orono. This company is one of the few remaining manufacturers of solid wood oars and paddles.
Old tools, most. The Tool Barn, Hulls Cove. Thousands of antique implements.
Onion rings, best. Jordan's Snack Bar, Rte 1, Ellsworth.
ONLINE INFORMATION for Downeast Maine, best. CAPTAIN D and his family of websites: CaptainD.com, DatesAnd Diversions.Com, DowneastPorts.info, MaineCybermall.com, Appealing PublicPlaces.com, AcadiaNationalPark.bix, MaineInternetDirectory.com, and the Directory of the Unique. If it's worth knowing, it's here someplace.
Organic produce, best buy. Crossroads Farm, Jonesport. We couldn't believe how many carrots we got for $3.
Oyster Bar, Maines longest. Dennetts Wharf, Castine. This venerable eatery hosts the annual Maine state oyster-eating championship.
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PAINTINGS, most energetic. Swing dancers on display at Susan Tobey White's HIGH STREET STUDIO & GALLERY in Belfast. They make you want to dance.
Passamaquoddy Tidal Power Project model, best. The 14-by-16-foot working model at the Quoddy Maritime Museum in Eastport. The project was an abortive depression-era effort to harness the region's great tides for the generation of electricity.
Paul Bunyan, biggest. Bangor Auditorium, Bangor. The statue here is 30 feet high.
Pharmacy, most idealistic. Downeast Pharmacy, Bangor and Brewer. Good Maine citizens, this small chain quit selling cigarettes a few years ago, and never did sell beer. It is engaged in a number of programs focusing on the elderly, youth, and the environment.
PIZZA, best. FINELLI'S PIZZERIA, Ellsworth. For lovers of New York-style, thin crust pizza, Pinelli's is the very best.
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Radio station, non-profit community, best. WERU. These guys have their priorities in order.
Radio station, world's most powerful. U.S. Navy Communication Center, Cutler. The 26 antenna towers here keep tabs on naval operations worldwide. This installation is said to put sleepy Cutler right up there with the Pentagon at the top of the list of enemy targets in any future nuclear confrontation.
Radio stations, most per capita. Bangor, Maine. With 11 stations, Bangor gives listeners more choices than any other city in the country.
Railroad, shortest. Belfast & Moosehead Railroad, Belfast. This line runs just 24 miles, to Brooks.
Research facility, nation's largest for study of mammalian genetics. The Jackson Laboratory, Bar Harbor.
Restaurant, best Caribbean atmosphere. Marlintini's Grill, Blue Hill.
Restaurant, best French. Le Domaine Restaurant, Hancock.
Rock face, toughest climb. Precipice Trail, Champlain Mountain. Eight hundred feet more-or-less straight up.
ROCKS & GEMS, biggest selection. BENNETT'S GEMS AND JEWELRY, Rte 1, Belfast. Best place in Eastern Maine to get stoned.
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Salad, best at inexpensive restaurant. Sam's Country Cafe, E. Machias. The salad here is in unsurpassed. Notable also is the Coach House Restaurant, Wilson St., Brewer. Large serving of fresh lettuce, green peppers, edible tomatoes, homemade croutons.
Sardine cannery, nation's most highly automated. Stinson Seafood Company, Prospect Harbor.
Sausage Rolls, best. Periwinkles Bakery, Rte 1, Searsport. These are in a class by themselves.
Sea Captains, most. Searsport. Between 1870 and 1900, more than 200 captains of deep water merchant vessels called Searsport home.
SEAFOOD, freshest. THE WHARF RESTAURANT, Bass Harbor. This restaurant is associated with the C.H. Rich Company which buys wholesale from local fishermen.
Seafood restaurant, best. Fisherman's Friend, Stonington. If you can believe Maine Times, this place is tops.
Self-help organization, best. H.O.M.E. Inc., Orland. Helped hundreds of area residents beat poverty.
SHEEPSKIN STUFF, most. BLACKSHEEP TRADING CO., Trenton. We get warm and fuzzy just thinking about all the cool, er, warm stuff they have.
Sheet music, most. Bagaduce Music Lending Library, Blue Hill. Here is an incredible collection, upwards of a million examples of old sheet music.
Shipmasters, most. Searsport, Maine. During the 1870s and '80s, ten percent of the shipmasters in the U.S. Merchant marine hailed from here.
Ship's chandlery, largest discount outlet north of Boston. Hamilton Marine, Rte 1, Searsport.
Ship's chandlery, nation's oldest. S.L. Wadsworth & Son, Eastport. Operating since 1818.
Ship's models, best. Bluejacket Shipcrafters, Searsport. The modeling kits this company makes quite likely are the world's finest.
Shoe store, country's oldest. Colburn's, Belfast. Folks have been outfitting their feet here since 1832.
Smoked hams, best. W.A. Bean and Sons, Bangor. Spiral-cut, honey-glazed hams are sold nationwide by mail order.
SOFT-SERVE ICE CREAM, most flavors. THE WISHBONE GRILL, Rte 3, Trenton, These guys mix up over 200 flavors of the tasty stuff. Flavor temptations include Skittles, Irish Cream, Creme de Menthe, Banana Cream Pie, Cream Soda, and Fluffernutter, to name a few.
Staircase, best. The Ruggles House, Columbia Falls. The most noted architects have found the hand-carved flying staircase astounding.
State Park island, only one in Maine. Warren Island, just west of Islesboro Island. This 700-acre park features trails, a picnic area, and campsites.
Stephen King, best memorabilia selection. Betts Bookstore, Hammond St., Bangor. Proprietor Stu Tinker, King's neighbor, stocks a copy of everything by King along with an ever-changing selection of King collectibles.
SUNDAY BRUNCH, best. THE RIVERSIDE CAFE, Ellsworth. Fresh squeezed juices, homemade baked goods, fresh baked bagels and such favorites as The Crabby Biscuit, Rudy's Famous Homemade Quiche, and the Blackbean Omelette make this our hands down favorite!
Sunrise, first to see it. During much of the year, folks at the summit of Cadillac Mountain are the first U.S. citizens to see the new day.
Sushi, best. Ebisu, Union St. Bangor.
Surf, best. Schoodic Point, Schoodic Peninsula. No other point of land juts further into the open Atlantic.
Symphony, oldest community orchestra. Bangor Symphony Orchestra, Bangor. Group is celebrating a centennial.
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Tea and popovers, best. Jordan Pond House, Acadia National Park. Go here only if you don't mind rubbing elbows with Rockefellers and Vanderbilts.
Thrift Shop, least expensive. The Recycle Shop, Cherryfield. This shop, associated with Bar Harbor's Maine Sea Coast Mission, charges just 10 cents an item. (Further donations are gratefully accepted.)
Tides, world's highest. Bay of Fundy. Tides here can reach 25 feet.
Tobaggon run, longest. Camden Snow Bowl, Camden. Said to be longest tobaggon run in North American.
Tombstone, most celebrated. Buck Monument, Rte 1, Bucksport. Stone is said to be imprinted with the foot of a witch Col. Buck had executed for witchcraft.
Town, country's easternmost. Lubec.
Toys, best. The Toymaker, Rte 1A, Ellsworth. Ed Parent and his crafters make wonderful toys for kids of all ages.
Trail Mix, best. Convenience Store on Dreamwood Hill, Bar Harbor. These guys mix their own, combining peanut & regular M&M's, cashews, coconut and plenty of raisins. A small bag sells for $1.99; it's well worth it.
Tropical Fish, best. Vance's, Bucksport. You can see fish here you won't find anywhere else. They're wonderfully healthy, too.
Truck stop, best. Dysart's, Exit 44, I-95, Bangor. This family-run concern is local legend.
TRUFFLES, best. BEN & BILL'S CHOCOLATE EMPORIUM, 66 Main St., Bar Harbor. Manager Jeff Young insists on using only the best ingredients in his many varieties of truffles. Recently he's added Gelato, a frozen treat from Italy that's a highly nutritious complete food.
TURKEY, most ways served. THE WISHBONE GRILL, Rte 3, Trenton. Here you can get a Turkey Burger, a Turkey Wrap, Turkey Quesadilla, Turkey Nuggets, Grilled Turkey Salad, an Open Turkey Sandwich, and a Turkey Dinner Roll, as well as small and large Turkey Dinners.
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Underground raillroad, northernmost stopover. Brewer House B&B, Calais.
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Vessel, most celebrated launched from Downeast yard. Roosevelt, built on Verona Island in 1905. This was Adm. Robert E. Peary's steel-sheathed Arctic exploration vessel.
Vessels, most owned by an organization. Upwards of 100, the vessels comprising the fleet of Maine Maritime Academy in Castine. Included are the training ship State of Maine, the tug Pentagoet, the barge Central, the research vessels ARGO Maine and Friendship, the historic schooner Bowdoin, and dozens of smaller craft.
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Walk, easiest providing best view in Acadia Natinal Park. Flying Mountain Trail from the Fernald Cove end of the Valley Cove truck road in Soutwest Harbor. Hikers get a fine pararoma of Somes Sound and several islands including the Cranberries.
Whale watching, best guarantee. Bar Harbor Whale Watch Co., 39 Cottage St., Bar Harbor. Money back (minus a 20% service charge) if you dont see a whale. This companys $3-million jet-powered catamaran is also the worlds fastest whale-watching vessel.
Whirlpool, Western hemisphere's largest. Old Sow, Eastport. You can inspect it up close and personal on the Deer Isle ferry.
Winery, best. Bartlett Maine Estate Winery, Rte 1, Gouldsboro. Unusual semi-sweet and dry fruit wines.
WINE, best selection. SAWYER'S SPECIALTIES, Main St., Southwest Harbor. This unique deli stocks over 1,000 varieties of wine.
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Yachts, best. The Hinckley Company, Southwest Harbor. The fiberglass vessels this company makes are unsurpassed.
YARN, largest selection. SHIRLEY'S YARNS AND CRAFTS, Rte 1, Ellsworth. More than 2,500 different hand-knitting yarns from all over the world.
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Zuni Fetishes, most. Azure Dragonfly, Belfast. This small shop has much unique stock. It also has Janice, who is likewise and wonderfully unique.